This week has been a wild one on the Sayulita sea, with heavy, wind-driven swells powering in, breaking much farther out at sea than we are accustomed to. People have been surfing these crazy waves, huge rights breaking along the north beach, left tubes barreling out front of Don Pedro’s. We know it’s not the best weather for visitors, but it sure makes for high drama on the ocean—and on shore as well, where there have been ultra high and low tides swooping in and out.
The ocean is on a tear. This morning, Wednesday, I paddled out into the swells on the right and got a few big ones. It felt like the north Pacific out there, except, of course, that the water and air were warm. Not hot, but warm, which removes the elemental fear from the experience of paddling out. Big, powerful cold waves not only pummel you, they suck the energy out of your body when you’re pushed under water. Warm water waves are much more forgiving, even big ones, and so, it was good fun out there today, even getting pummelled, or maytagged, as one friend describes the experience of getting drilled by a bomber.
Today the sun is fighting through, burning the gray away, and we believe we will be back to our normal sunny, balmy January any hour now, any day now, any minute now. Meanwhile, if you feel like braving the wild sea, swimming or surfing out there can be a real challenge. There are rideable wave out there, as you can see in the photo. The surfers are out, bagging some good ones. Just be careful! This kind of swell generates plenty of strange currents, rip tides, and the like, so do take care if you go for a surf or swim. Those red flags are up on the lifeguard stands for a reason.